Serra San Quirico

What to know

Perched on a rocky spur at the mouth of the Gola della Rossa, in the Esino valley, Serra San Quirico is a fortified village of great charm, which arose in a strategic position to control the ancient route towards the Apennines, there where the valley narrows between high limestone walls. Of medieval origin, it was a contested castle and then a faithful possession of the Papal States, which strengthened its defences and made it a solid frontier stronghold. The village preserves intact its defensive layout, with the walls, the towers and above all the characteristic "copertelle", covered walkways that run along the fortifications, unique of their kind. The steep alleys, the stairways and the stone houses create an evocative maze that climbs towards the summit of the hill, where every corner reveals unexpected views. Immersed in the Gola della Rossa and Frasassi Park, awarded the Orange Flag of the Touring Club, Serra San Quirico is today an authentic and well-preserved village, an ideal starting point for excursions among gorges, woods and hermitages, and for discovering the rich heritage of art and nature of the valley. Surrounded by mountains, watercourses and trails, the town lives in close bond with the natural environment that enfolds it, between the green of the woods and the grey of the crags, offering the visitor the image of an Apennine village that has remained faithful to its own history and its own landscape. Those who arrive here discover a rare interweaving of nature and architecture, where the rock, the water and the stone shaped by man merge into a single, evocative beauty.

What to see

The most characteristic feature of the village are the "copertelle", the covered walkways that wind along the ancient walls, a unique experience to travel among arches and loopholes, where the light filters through creating an atmosphere suspended in time. Worth seeing are the church of San Quirico and that of Santa Lucia, with their fine Baroque interiors and works of art, and the complex of Sant'Elena, testimony to the long religious history of the village. The Cartaceo and the small local museums recount history and traditions, while the alleys and stairways offer picturesque views at every corner, among stone houses, portals and small courtyards. All around, the Gola della Rossa and Frasassi Nature Park offers trails, climbing walls, hermitages and spectacular panoramas along the river Esino, which over the millennia has carved deep gorges among the mountains. The proximity to the Frasassi Caves, to Genga and to Fabriano makes it possible to combine in a single itinerary fortified villages, wild nature and underground masterpieces, in one of the most evocative territories of the Marche hinterland. Lovers of hiking find here a true paradise, among trekking routes, mountain bike itineraries and hermitages hidden among the rocks, while the village's belvederes offer wide views over the valley and the Apennine reliefs, in a continuous dialogue between the ancient stone of the town and the unspoilt nature that surrounds it. Every season paints the landscape with new colours, inviting the visitor to explore at leisure this fascinating corner of the Marche hinterland.

What to eat

The cuisine of Serra San Quirico has its roots in the rural tradition of the Esino valley, made of genuine products and recipes handed down from generation to generation. A symbolic dish is the "crescia di Pasqua", a tasty cheese cake tied to the spring festivities, while among the first courses one savours tagliatelle, passatelli, cappelletti in broth and vincisgrassi, the rich lasagne of the Marche, often enriched with the truffle of the nearby mountains. Not to be missed are the local cured meats, from the spreadable ciauscolo to salame, and the sheep's cheeses, accompanied by mushrooms, chestnuts and field vegetables gathered in the woods and vegetable gardens of the valley. Giving character to the dishes is the Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi wine, produced in the surrounding hills, a fresh and elegant white, together with the local reds of full flavour. Among the desserts, crostate, ciambelloni and traditional biscuits stand out, prepared at home according to ancient customs. The village festivals, tied to seasonal products and religious celebrations, are the ideal occasion to savour these genuine flavours in the restaurants and farm holiday inns of the village, in a welcoming atmosphere that reflects the hospitality of the hinterland, where every meal becomes a moment of conviviality and the bond with the land is renewed with each course, among aromas of the woods, fragrant bread and the warmth of the Marche people. To sit at the table in this village means to share not only a meal, but an entire culture made of seasons, festivals and ancient knowledge handed down with pride.