Gradara

What to know

Perched on a hill a few kilometres from the Adriatic, Gradara is dominated by its famous Rocca, one of the best-preserved medieval castles in Italy. The first fortified nucleus was built by the Griffo family around the 12th century; it was then the Malatesta, in the 14th century, who enlarged the fortress and encircled the village with a double ring of walls almost eight hundred metres long. Over the centuries Gradara passed to the Sforza, the Della Rovere and finally to the Church State, always remaining a strategic garrison contested between the Marche and Romagna. The village owes much of its fame to the tragic love story of Paolo Malatesta and Francesca da Polenta, immortalised by Dante in the fifth canto of the Inferno: according to tradition it was precisely within these walls that the two lovers, brother- and sister-in-law, met their death at the hand of Gianciotto. At the beginning of the 20th century the Rocca, by then in ruins, was bought and skilfully restored by Umberto Zanvettori, who gave it back the fairy-tale appearance we admire today. Recognised among "The Most Beautiful Villages of Italy" and awarded the Orange Flag of the Touring Club, Gradara preserves intact the atmosphere of the Middle Ages, among towers, sentry walkways, cobbled alleys and views that range from the hills to the sea.

What to see

The heart of the visit is the Rocca di Gradara, with its drawbridge, frescoed rooms, the chapel with the Della Robbia altarpiece and the famous chamber of Francesca, setting of the Dantean legend. From the sentry walkways along the walls one enjoys an extraordinary panorama that on clear days reaches as far as the sea and Romagna. The village enclosed within the walls is discovered by strolling along the main street, among shops, taverns and stone houses, up to the church of San Giovanni Battista, which holds a fine wooden Crucifix. Worth a stop are the Teatro dell'Aria, dedicated to falconry, and the Historical Museum with its collections of weapons and instruments of torture. Outside the walls, the Wood of Paolo and Francesca offers a romantic walk overlooking the fortress, ideal for photographing the castle's profile. Nearby, one can easily reach the coast of Gabicce and Cattolica and the green hinterland of the San Bartolo Park, combining history, nature and sea in a single itinerary.

What to eat

The cuisine of Gradara is a border cuisine, suspended between the Marche and the Romagna traditions. Queen of the table is handmade pasta: tagliatelle, passatelli in broth, cappelletti and the typical "tagliolini con la bomba", served with rich ragùs. Not to be missed is the piadina, warm and fragrant, filled with local cured meats and cheeses. Among the main courses stand out coniglio in porchetta, roasts and grilled meat, accompanied by seasonal vegetables and wild herbs. There is no shortage of hinterland products, from extra-virgin olive oil to cheeses, from honey to local cured meats. In the village taverns one still breathes the convivial atmosphere of medieval banquets, often re-enacted during the historical events. Giving character to the dishes is the wine of the Colli Pesaresi, while the closeness to the sea also brings Adriatic fish to the table, from brodetto to fried dishes. Among the desserts are ciambelle, crostate and the sweets linked to the festivals, to be enjoyed at the end of the meal together with a herbal liqueur of the peasant tradition.